Tallinn: From Saku to Saku
Five days in Estonia’s capital, where medieval rooftops meet street art, and every corner seems to come with a good beer and a better story. This trip unfolded between father-son moments, old town walks, and a growing list of local brews — from the first sip at Patkuli Viewpoint to the last pint before boarding.
View from Tompea Hill
Day 1- 2am Arrival
We arrived so late that we did not realize where we were. It was dark with no soul in site. The taxi driver left us off in front of a gate in which we need to utilize the instructions provided to retrieve the keys to the apartment for the weekend.
Hint: Stayed at Tallinn City Apartments Old Town Toompea https://www.booking.com/Share-OE97nM
First Taste
Lunch at Fersen Café, beneath Patkuli Viewpoint. Shared Reval sausages and elk dumplings — rich, local, and worth every bite. The first Saku beer of the trip, crisp and easy. https://share.google/QVmdz0WL0N5qETCyM
A post-lunch walk through Toompea showed a quieter Tallinn: embassies, stone streets, and wind off the Gulf.
Evening:
Vat Brewery: smooth start, local feel.
Bad Habits: pulled pork, house beer, great mood.
Halakoda: decent IPA, excellent service.
Hell Hunt: Estonia’s first pub — crossed a 14th-century wall for the pint.
Day 2— Wandering and Nightlife
Beer at Bar Bar (the Absurd IPA from Kabliku) — bright, confident. Dinner at Olde Hansa, part history lesson, part medieval theater. Closed the night in the glow of the Depeche Mode Bar — synth, nostalgia, and perfect irony.
Day 3 — Telliskivi and Noblessner
Switched gears and headed to Telliskivi, Tallinn’s creative heart — a patchwork of murals, repurposed warehouses, and laid-back cafés. Stopped at F-hoone for lunch; good food, kind service, and a Dante quote on the wall that somehow became the highlight.
From there, wandered through Kalamaja’s wood district, its pastel houses and garden fences giving way to the scent of sea air. Eventually reached Põhjala Brewery, Estonia’s modern craft powerhouse.
We kept walking toward the water, circling the old Coast Guard shipyard, the wind sharp and salty. Couldn’t resist the obligatory photo at the Noblessner propeller — one of those moments that feels touristy but right.
Curiosity led us into Brewklyn Craft Beer Café, a warm, easy-going spot that deserves more attention. Ordered a Juice Box IPA (Tuletorn Brewery) — juicy and bright, exactly what the name promised.
Wrapped the evening with a Frozen.bro pop-up dinner at Uba ja Humal, pairing creative plates with crisp French craft beers — an unexpected but perfect close to the day.
Day 4— City Reset
Sunday called for a change of pace and address — we moved into the Telegraph Marriott. The brand has a soft spot in my story; I grew up wandering Marriott lobbies, and I still choose them whenever the budget allows. There’s a certain familiarity in the details — the scent, the tone, the quiet precision.
A local had tipped me off about a burger spot worth the detour: Soo Uulits Tänavagurmee. From the outside, it looked like a casual street joint. Inside, hip-hop pulsed through the speakers and the grill worked overtime. One bite in, and I understood the recommendation — easily one of the best burgers of the trip.
Never one to skip a good taproom, we made our way into the city to find Pühaste Taproom Tallinn, home to one of Estonia’s standout craft breweries. Went for a three-part tasting flight:
Mosaik IPA — bright and crisp.
Rewind IPA — piney, old-school depth.
Florida IPA — tropical and playful.
Each glass felt like another chapter in Estonia’s brewing evolution.
By late afternoon, we needed somewhere to unwind — no crowds, no checklist. We found exactly that at a place literally called the No Name Bar. Played billiards and darts, father and son trading wins and laughs as the hours slipped by. Rounded out the evening with a Tanker IPA, a smooth, balanced pour that wrapped up our Tallinn adventure just right.
Day 5— Time to go back to home
The trip ended right where it began — with Saku. At Tallinn Airport, I ordered a Saku Legend, a malty, rounded pint said to be brewed exclusively for the airport. There was something fitting about it: first and last beer from the same brewery, closing the loop in the most Estonian way possible.
As I sat by the gate, watching planes taxi in the fading light, it struck me how Tallinn’s magic lies in its balance — old and new, humor and history, structure and spontaneity. It’s not a city that performs; it just is. And if you move slow enough, it shows you everything.
💡 Travel Sidekick Tip: Trips like this aren’t really about the miles or the beers — they’re about the company. Taking a father–son (or father–daughter) trip is less a luxury and more a quiet investment. You get to see the world through each other’s eyes for a few days, share a laugh, maybe argue over directions, and end up with memories that outlast the itinerary.
And if you want a travel buddy that never misses those details? Check out my GPT Justo Hops – Your Chill Travel Sidekick.